Puppy Agreement


I am very proud of my dogs and puppies. In 2000, I bought a Kona coffee farm and decided to breed Labrador retrievers. Earlier in my professional life, as a university professor, I had occasionally bred Burmese cats, Samoyeds, and Papillons, and raised four children. Retirement to Hawaii gave me opportunities to have land for dogs to run, a spacious kennel area, time to select great dogs, to raise and care for them, and to breed sound, beautiful companion dogs that make people very happy.

My breeding dogs were imported from well-known kennels in New Zealand (Ella, Gamefield Enchantress; Penny, Croftsway Penny Brown) and Australia (Stormy. Mikelli DarkN Stormy; Bonnie, Avokah Choclyt Brownie; Zoe, Cranlamila Dreamtime; Mozart, Lacote The Composer and Hannah, Lacote Hannah; Ruby and Amber, Spiritrock Touch of Ruby and Touch of Amber).

From these outstanding dogs, I have selected a few puppies to keep for the breeding program (Emily, Aloha Emily Dickenson; James, Aloha Kona Coffee; Sasha, Aloha Sweet Sasha; Abigail and Camille, Aloha Emily’s Abigail and Camille of Timberline Big Ben; Phoebe, Aloha Phabulous Phoebe). Some are still too young to breed (girls should be two years old for first litters; boys can be younger).

Three imported puppies did not work out for a variety of reasons – they did not have sound joints or friendly Lab temperaments or good conformation. They were not suitable for breeding, though they are good pets in other families. Some puppies I bred turned out to be less than I hoped for breeding, and they were sold as family companions.

Parents’ Certifications

Before breeding, dogs’ eyes are examined by a veterinary ophthalmologist and certified to be Clear, no inherited eye disorders. Parents’ hip and elbow joints are x-rayed and certified by OFA (Orthopedic Foundation for Animals). All of my dogs are negative for PRA (progressive retinal atrophy) and have no history of heart disorders or epilepsy in their ancestry. All of my dogs are tested for Exercise Induced Collapse (EIC). Test results are posted for each dog on the Boys’ and Girls’ pages of the web site.

All dogs are registered with the American Kennel Club, and litters are pre-registered with the AKC.

Puppy Care, Feeding, and Socialization

I socialize my puppies to be calm, happy, playful family companions. Puppies spend their first four weeks in a whelping box in my bedroom, where their mother and I make sure they are well fed, warm, and loved. I weigh them, handle and stroke them every day. After their eyes and ears open in the third week, they get up on their feet to explore their world. From the third week until they leave, puppies get used to household and farm noises, lots of different people’s voices and touches, and they meet some other animals.

In the third week, puppies begin solid foods (the mothers look so grateful). Puppies are fed a raw meaty mush of ground beef and beef heart, raw eggs, and plain yogurt. As they get teeth in the fourth week, their meaty mush starts to have more chewy lumps in it, and they gradually transition to consuming raw chicken wings (meat and bones) by 6 weeks of age. Before puppies leave here, they are crunching up chicken drumsticks and tearing meaty chunks off beef bones like the little carnivores they are. Their mothers still nurse them a couple of times a day, more for motherly love than for significant nourishment, because by 8 weeks of age puppies weigh 13 to 16 pounds each – a total body mass that usually exceeds their mother’s.

When puppies climb out of the whelping box, around 4 weeks of age, they go outside to the puppy yard, where they have grass, dirt, a puppy pool, a puppy house, and lots of room to run and play. By instinct, it seems, they eliminate in the grass and keep their house clean. Their mother comes in to nurse them. Children, friends, and family all come to play with the puppies. When they leave their birth home, they are ready to join a new family and to be a family member.

Health Guarantees

Sound parents are the best health guarantee I can offer. Of course, if a puppy is later found to have a genetic defect that limits his suitability as a family companion, I will replace the puppy. If within the first week after taking your puppy home, you have concerns about the puppy’s health, take the puppy to your veterinarian. If your veterinarian concludes they puppy is a poor health risk, notify me within 24 hours of the vet visit, and I will take the puppy back and replace him/her with a similar puppy from a future litter.

Some problems, such as hip and elbow dysplasia, are strongly influenced by care and feeding in the puppy’s first year of life. A good early diet, from their nursing mother and from raw-meaty-bones, strengthens their bones, joints, and muscles. I protect them from falls and injuries. Puppies need continued protection and care for the first year of life. If their joints are protected from injury in the first 12 months, they will have no joint problems ever after.

Protect a puppy’s joints by not letting him jump off anything taller than he is (standing on four legs).
Do not play rough games or tug-of-war that can injure a puppy
Do not allow your puppy to play with a larger dog who may injure him (puppies don’t have good judgment about which larger dogs will hurt them; you have to make that call)
Do not allow puppies to run, swim, or exercise to the point of exhaustion or heat stroke.
Walk with puppies, play fetch, swim short distances with them, and let them exercise at their own
Give puppies plenty of opportunities to rest and sleep – they are babies.
· Feed a raw-meaty-bones diet, high in animal proteins and fats, low in carbohydrates, to build strong bones and muscles to support joints. Chewing raw meats and meaty bones will clean his teeth and gums, and give your puppy a healthy, long life.

· Do not feed commercial pet foods. Cooked carbohydrates are not an appropriate diet for carnivores. Kibbles and canned mush of all alleged qualities will coat his teeth and gums with bacteria-infested sludge, cause periodontal disease that will infect his major organs and create a host of chronic debilitative diseases. Just say NO, regardless of who tells you to feed the commercial pet food.


At 8 weeks of age, puppies get their first inoculations against parvovirus and other serious diseases. They will need two more inoculations at 12 and 16 weeks to complete their immunity. In Hawaii, they also need protection against several strains of leptospirosis (a vaccine).

At 8 weeks, puppies receive a thorough veterinary examination for heart, lungs, eyes, joints, dentition and bite. Any concerns will be reported to you. A Health Record is sent with the puppy when you take him home.


Puppies get intestinal worms from their mothers, even though mothers are wormed monthly. Worm eggs are transferred across the placenta when puppies are in utero and in mothers’ milk.

We give our puppies intestinal worming medication every two weeks from 2- or 3-weeks of age until they leave at 8-weeks. We use Safeguard (Fenbenzadole), which treats round, hook, whip, and tape worms.

You need to give intestinal worm medication to your puppy monthly. I recommend Interceptor Spectrum (from Australia online without prescription) or Iverheart Max, which you can buy online with a vet prescription or from your local veterinarian. These medications also protect against heartworm.

Health Advisory

Because puppies are not fully immunized against parvovirus, a major killer of puppies, until 18 weeks of age – two weeks after their final inoculation – it is not advisable to take them to public places where non-immunized dogs have been, until they are fully protected. Non-immunized adult dogs can be carriers of parvovirus, which is shed in their feces and can remain active for 5 or 6 months after they pooped there. Public places to avoid unfortunately include beaches and public parks. It is probably safe to take the puppy to places where you know the dogs are immunized, such as friends’ homes, puppy classes, and private pools. After final inoculations, you and the puppy are free to travel anywhere.

My Right to Re-home the Dog

My goal is for you to have a puppy you will cherish for his entire lifetime. We all know, however, that unforeseen circumstances can arise that require people to give up a dog. If you must relinquish this dog at any future time, I retain the right to take the dog back to re-home him. I never want a single one of my puppies to end up in a Rescue or Humane Society shelter. By accepting this puppy, you promise to inform me first of any need to relinquish him at any point in his lifetime.

Contract Read and Accepted.

Buyers’ signature Date

Breeders’ signature Date